Centre is setting up a state-of-the-art laboratory in Srinagar to test illegal Shahtoosh in Pashmina shawls. This comes after scientists at the Council of Scientific and Industrial Research – Centre for Cellular and Molecular Biology (CSIR-CCMB), Hyderabad, developed the world’s first DNA test to detect Shahtoosh in Pashmina. The move is likely to give a boost to the handicrafts sector. Industry had to face severe regularity checks at different seaports and airports, which were delaying the exports and causing huge losses to the exporters. Now, the lab will be testing the shawls before reaching the ports for export. Earlier, a sword of suspicion was dangling over exporters’ heads. Since Shahtoosh is banned, the authorities were suspecting that exports may smuggle the shawls under the garb of Pashmina. The test will help to distinguish Pashmina wool from Shahtoosh. After tests, the exporters will receive the okay certificate in Srinagar itself. This way, the products will not have to go through the reverification process. It will save both time and money. Shahtoosh shawl weaving and selling were prohibited in Jammu and Kashmir in 2000, five years after the international ban. Conservationists believe a highly endangered Tibetan antelope, known as Chiru, is killed for its wool. Twenty-five years on, suspicion over selling Shahtoosh under the garb of Pashmina has left the industry gasping for breath. Sensing the problems faced by the traders, the government decided to set up a lab in Srinagar for testing before export. Kashmir Pashmina shawls are the most sought-after shawls in the international market. A plain 100 percent handmade pashmina shawl sells at around Rs 20,000 at the manufacturing level. Design and embroidery work on the shawl determine its ultimate market value. Intricate embroidery and its design can push the cost of Pashmina fabric, including shawls, to Rs five lakh or more. Pashmina is among 15 handicraft products from Kashmir that have been granted a Geographical Indication (GI) tag. Pashmina shawls are Kashmir’s identity. The GI indication has infused a new lease of life into Kashmir crafts. Official figures reveal that hand-made products worth ₹309.62 crore were exported to various overseas destinations in Q1FY26, up from ₹126.90 crore in the previous quarter. The second quarter, from July to September 2025, contributed over Rs 100 crore, bringing the H1FY26 total to Rs 410 crore. The Handicrafts and Handloom Department is targeting exports of over ₹1500 crore in the current fiscal. Last fiscal, craft products worth ₹733.59 crore were exported. The Centre’s initiatives have sent a positive message. The government should now expedite the process of setting up the lab in Srinagar. Plus, the ease of doing business should be encouraged. All ports and airports should be directed to ensure hassle-free exports. It will not only boost production but also help in creating job opportunities in Kashmir.
Pashmina testing lab
