Come, explore kaleidoscopic culture of Shahr-e-Khas

Srinagar: For those who want to delve deep into the history and culture embedded in the old city of Kashmir, the downtown legacy tour offers a perfect answer.

Srinagar’s old city, with its Dhajji Dewaari architecture, bustling street food, and diverse culture, holds a deep-rooted history waiting to be discovered. Every winding lane and by-lane takes you on a journey through time, revealing moments when Shehr-e-Khaas was the epicenter of the Sultanate and trade.

Beyond the conventional tourist spots, Downtown Legacy Tour, an initiative led by a local NGO named Aab-e-Rawan, allows visitors to immerse themselves fully in the city’s kaleidoscopic culture. Co-founded by Khalid Bukhari, Muneeb Masoodi, and project director Chinmai Verma, the heritage tour aims to uncover the hidden stories within the walls of quaint timber-framed buildings and ancient keepsakes, offering a unique perspective on the city’s past.

Khalid Bukhari, an expert in marketing with experience working with numerous startups, explains the inspiration behind the initiative: “Tourism in Kashmir is often limited to the renowned Mughal gardens and commercial areas. However, the old city, rich in history, has much more to offer to both tourists and history enthusiasts. We tend to forget the deep connections we have with the places we encounter in our daily lives. This initiative aims to bridge that gap and reconnect us with our past. It draws inspiration from heritage walks in Delhi and Kochi,” he said. 

The exploratory journey combines bus rides and walking tours. It commences with a bus ride from the Tourist Reception Centre to the first stop at Jama Masjid, a 600-year-old mosque. From there, the walking tour begins, leading to the heritage museum overlooking the Shaher-e-Khaas, known as Baitul Miraas. The whirlwind trip continues to the ancient wholesale market, Maharaj Gunj, established by Maharaja Ranbir Singh in 1863-64. Along the way, participants have the opportunity to meet the owners of intergenerational shops that have withstood the ravages of time and modernization and to experience the vibrant atmosphere of the city’s largest bazaar. These experiences are sure to leave visitors in awe of the city’s rich history.

Further along, closer to Maharaj Gunj, travelers are treated to the magnificent Tomb of Budshah.  built in the 15th century by Sultan Zain-ul-Abidin, also known as Budshah, the tomb serves as the final resting place of Sultan Zain-ul-Abdin’s mother, located on the banks of Jhelum.

“Our tour also showcases the culinary history of the city, offering heritage on a plate with a side of history,” adds Bukhari. “For instance, we introduce visitors to Wazwaan, the traditional seven-course meal preparation. Food preservation has been an integral part of our culture, with dried vegetables such as bottle gourds, brinjals, tomatoes, and turnips stored for the cold winters. In the markets of the old city, visitors can interact with sellers of these dried vegetables.”

The organizers have also partnered with various artisans to highlight the traditional crafts of the old city. Visitors have the opportunity to engage with paper-mache artists, witnessing the intricate designs and gilded decorations that reflect the Persian heritage of this Muslim frontier of India. The beauty of Kashmir’s walnut wood carving, a significant craft of the region, is also showcased. Kashmir stands as one of the few places in the world where walnut is still available at such high altitudes (5500–7500 feet above sea level). “And this is how participants gain in-depth knowledge about all the crafts, monuments, and lesser known facts through these heritage walks,” Bukhari maintained.

The organizers recount memorable experiences from previous tours, where participants were deeply impacted. “We had tourists who traveled from Chandigarh specifically for the downtown tour. They connected with artisans and made multiple purchases. Similarly, a mother and daughter duo focused on the culinary tour and came solely to witness the Wazwan preparations,” he shared.

Since its inception in October of the previous year, the downtown tour has catered to 80 people every month. Interested visitors can visit the Downtown Legacy Tour website or reach out through Instagram and other social media platforms to fill out a form and request preferred dates. Customized tours are also available, with prices set at 1500 per person, inclusive of travel, food, and snacks. A minimum of three people is required to book a tour.

Bukhari emphasizes its long-term goal of instilling a sense of pride in the city’s heritage among its residents, as well as aiding in the preservation and conservation efforts. “We have many aspirations for the future. Expanding our tour offerings and creating more walking trails in and around the city are definitely among our goals.”